What is incredible is the lifestyle of the cowboys (yak-boys, really) that zoom round on hotted-up motorbikes, with boom boxes on the back playing Tibetan pop or eurotrance, 70’s sunglasses and leather jackets complimenting traditional red braids in their long hair – all topped off with a jauntily angled cowboy hat. These guys (the women no less stylish, but quieter due to lack of sub-woofer ownership), come into town to buy supplies, trade, and gossip, before heading back to small isolated villages and nomad tents. It made for a great atmosphere in the town, and we stayed for a few days just to enjoy it; wandered up past the stunning new monastery and the very grotty ‘hot springs’. We stayed at Snowland Guesthouse for 40Y, run by crazy girls who stomp around the place to activate the dodgy sensor lights, singing at the top of their lungs – Chinese Idol won’t know what hit them when they head to Litang.
From Litang, next stop was Tagong town (via a 4 hour wait for roadworks). This is a town famous for its grasslands, and again felt more Tibetan or Kham (the local minority) than Chinese – and that’s a compliment. From here Ros rode a few ponies, and in fact so did B, although we were mighty disappointed that our “horse trek” was more like a pony ride, as our guide lead us all the way to our accommodation – a nomad tent deep in the grasslands, and our one and only “homestay” of the trip.
The nomads of west Sichuan are yak farmers, and during our stay in their home (see photo below), we were treated to yak milk, yak butter, yak yogurt, and yak cheese – plus some potatoes thrown in. Their day is filled with milking, herding, mating (yes, the yaks need help apparently), and cleaning up after these creatures. The environment is stunning but I do not envy the life of these nomads. Their one luxury is a solar panel, which they use for a couple of hours lighting the evening. Our camera was they source of much fascination and amusement, especially for the little kids Tanza and Dronkiona. It was lovely to see siblings playing together in a land of little emperors – as minority people, the Kham nomads are allowed to have more than one child.
Returning to Tagong with very sore arses after 2 days on wooden saddles, we were headed back down the mountain, and back into true China…